Recipes Beyond Borders
Tomato recipes, and the right to write beyond heritage.
I love tomatoes. I love them so much, but I don’t write about them as much as I should.
Why?
Because those aren’t the kinds of recipes I’m supposed to write about.
Who makes up the rules?
I don’t know.
Apparently, there are lots of bloody rules.
Madhur Jaffrey, the doyenne of Indian cuisine, once said that she’d love to write a book on Italian food, but she didn’t think she’d ever get the chance, (even though she’s written a million books on Indian cuisine).
I think about that a lot.
Because it’s common to see white authors write books about the food of India, the Middle East, or Southeast Asia. In fact, they’re celebrated for it.
But when someone like me writes beyond the borders of one’s heritage, it’s received differently.
It’s not authentic.
Stay in your lane, Shayma.
I’ve spent years in Italy. I worked for the UN in Rome. I was born in Lahore and as the daughter of an international banker, I grew up between Pakistan, the U.S., Kenya, Nigeria, Bangladesh, the U.K. And finally, I made my way to Toronto from Rome.
My kitchen doesn’t belong to one place. I cook from all the places that made me.
So today I’m saying, fuck it. I’m sharing tomato recipes. Tomato recipes which have nothing to do with my heritage.
And everything to do with the years I spent living in Italy.
And Canada. And, and, and.
Everything to do with being a woman who has lived across continents.
A Third Culture Kid who loves to cook, loves to eat, and refuses to be boxed in.
Because it’s August in Toronto, and because tomatoes are glorious right now.
Because I’m not here to be merely consumed.
I’m not here to write solely about Pakistani or Afghan or Persian food, just because that’s what’s expected of me.
I’m here to write about the food I love. And today, I want to write about tomatoes.
Here’s what I’ve been doing with them, and I hope it inspires you to do the same.
1. Slice tomatoes and peaches with fresh herbs (basil for me), with your favorite vinaigrette. I used lemon juice + olive oil, kept it simple.
And there’s more…
2. Make a humble Insalata Caprese. I made this for myself in Noale, Italy, (except I used arugula instead of basil).
3. Create a Tomato Medley with Sumac Vinaigrette. Add dill flowers, and dried red chillies. The vinaigrette is nothing fancy: lemon juice, olive oil, flaky salt, and sumac. That’s it.
4. Simple. Cherry tomatoes from my garden, with fresh basil, also from my garden, adorned with edible flowers (Bachelor Buttons), a drizzle of olive oil, flaky sea salt.
5. Cherry tomatoes with burrata and sourdough. No further explanation needed.
6. This is a really unique one. But stay with me. Heirloom tomatoes with fig leaf dust, and a drizzle of fig leaf oil.
I know, you probably don’t have fig leaves lying around—and that’s not the point. The idea is this: blanch and peel your tomatoes, slice them, and finish with something fresh + fragrant. That could be olive oil + flaky salt, za’atar, citrus zest, or whatever you’re in the mood for.
And if you’re someone who likes an actual recipe that is written down, and measured, here’s the one I make on repeat.
RECIPE: Spice Spoon’s Creamy Tomato Salad
Ingredients:
2-3 large heirloom tomatoes, sliced thick
2 Tbsp Kewpie mayo (you can also use regular mayo)
1 Tbsp vinegar (use your favourite, apple cider vinegar, balsamic, whatever you have on hand)
1 Tbsp Tamari
1 Tbsp olive oil
Fresh herbs, coarsely chopped (I used Italian flat leaf parsley)
1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
Preparation:
Whisk the mayo, vinegar, Tamari, and olive oil together in a small bowl until smooth. Arrange the tomato slices on a platter. Spoon the dressing over, scatter with herbs and grated Parm, and let it sit for a few minutes before serving. This is even better with crusty bread.
As always, this newsletter is written entirely by me. No AI tools, just my own words.
All photographic beauty in this newsletter is by me, unless otherwise credited.
Oh what gorgeous ideas and photos! 😍 Please, don’t stay in “your lane” lol! Keep posting whatever you want. It’s beautiful!
Mamma mia Shayma! We have a lot of things in common, growing up wise! I learned to speak English as a child of five in Karachi, indeed one of my sisters was born there. Our family also lived in what used to East Pakistan and then Bangladesh ... and I used to work for one of the UN agencies in Rome - FAO, what about you? Beyond borders is what the world should be contemplating right now and be 'authentic' about that - seek justice and peace. And food is a great connector - that's what I love about it. Continua così. vai Shayma!